The cult of historical monuments is so profound in Greece that site research is not really affected by the crisis and the pressure of the investors.

Petre Beşliu Munteanu, the well-known archaeologist of the Brukenthal National Museum, has recently returned from a “trip” to  Holy Mount Athos. Why do we use quotation for “trip”? Because, as you are going to understand, the happiness to be in such a blessed place was accompanied, this time, by scientific study and research. Thus, the traveler had again the opportunity to be enchanted, the pilgrim to humble and marvel, while the historian and archaeologist discovered interesting new things (in the very sense of the word). The nearby interview will clarify more than this short introduction.

As far as we know, Mount Athos is a place for pilgrimage. Why was it for you a study trip?

P.M.B:I was twice in pilgrimage to Mount Athos, a holy place that fully deserves the name of The Garden of the Holy Mother . Through the prayers spoken during religious services, through the recollection that it offers, Mount Athos became a spiritual pole, an attraction for all Orthodox Christians. At the same time here, at Mount Athos, you are given the feeling to “live” history. The same rituals that have been practiced for thousands of years, the hundreds years old buildings, the natural and healthy inter/human relationships, compared to the insanity of our society, seem unreal. The appellatives ‘brother’ or ‘father’ reflect Christian relationships among the members of the Athonite society. But to answer your question: during my two pilgrimages I had noticed a specific distribution of the buildings which form the monastery. The assembly of the construction is usually situated on a higher easy to defend place.

The monasteries are fortified, similar to those in Moldavia, you meen?

P.M.B: A monastery comprises a sacred place with a holy fountain surrounded by groups of cells, utilitarian spaces (a refectory for dining, a dormitory for the pilgrims, stables, sheds and storehouses, cellars, a hospital for the sick and the elders), an aqueduct and the dwelling-tower / the last shelter of the monks / that dominates the architectural assembly through its height. Situated on a craggy steep slope, The  Holy Monastery Simons Petra did not need a tower for the dwellings. Nor is there such a dungeon at the monastery The Great Lavra, which is surrounded by embattled precincts. The access is made through arched entrances closed by massive plated wood gates. They used to be protected by a tower situated above the gate.

You were interested in the fortifications of the monasteries, if I understand correctly.
P.M.B:Not only in the fortifications that protect the katholikon, but also in the tower that would protect the arsanas (the harbor) and in the towers that guarded the shores of the peninsula preventing or at least delaying the attacks of the pirates.

So, we speak about a real defensive system of the Athonite society.

We can speak here, indeed, by a defending system fit out by the entire Athonite community, meant to defend each monastery and its harbor that assured the connection with the continent due to its economic activities. The organization of the defending system reflects the organization of the Athonite society based on the autonomy of the monasteries lead by a central legislative structure comprising the abbots of the twenty monasteries and an executive one . The historic facts have to be taken into account in the organization and evolution of the system: the Byzantine, then the Ottoman domination, the role played by the Genovese in the sea trade, the domination of the Crusaders and, most of all, the danger represented by the outlaw pirates. The Athonite community would not have survived for a thousand years without this system that allowed the practice of the communitarian solidarity and without flexible politics.  

The entire guarding and defending system was pointed towards the enemy coming from the sea. He came up against the fortification of the shore (fortified harbors and towers), then against the fortifications of the monasteries that could held out until the outside help arrived. During the Ottoman domination there was an army body to protect the monasteries.

How happened that you were allowed to search on this “gold mine” represented by these medieval fortification and which were the results?
P.M.B:Though well preserved and complex as medieval defensive strategy the fortification from Mount Athos are not comprised in the ample studies regarding the European Middle Age fortifications. The punctual research is also feeble comprising only two dwelling towers. Neither did the Greek architects show a specific interest in the fortification. Even less can we speak about real interest in site researches in Mount Athos that has autonomy as part of the Greek Republic. The research field is generous, but the access inside the Athonite community, a promise land, is restricted. This is understandable from the perspective of the necessity to preserve the traditional values and way of life. In fact, the heritage of the Mount Athos is protected by UNESCO, and the Athonite legislation is acknowledged by the European Union.

During the period that the diamonitiriou(passport) offered me permission to research I studied a harbor defense tower, three shore fortifications and two precincts donjons with the nearby defending walls. On the ground floor the same as the West/European donjons, those in Athos are endowed with cistern and access to the ground, first or even second floors.  The chapel, the sacred place is naturally placed on the last floor. At least one room is supplied with a fireplace while the latrines are placed in the width of the walls.

The towers inside the monasteries are at least 20 meter high, with narrow windows or even windowless on the ground floor and large opening on the superior floors. A balcony was disposed in a stage when the defensive role was lost. At the last floor or above the entrance (St. Paul monastery) all the towers had openings to through the black oil. The probable use of both the mashiculis and the crenels on the superior platform of the tower at St. Paul Monastery is relevant in the general context of the medieval defensive strategy research. The structure of the defending tower at Athos does not, generally, differ from those in Western Europe. Nevertheless, there are some elements hard to identify. At the arsans (harbour) of the Simonos Petra Monastery there is an underground place just under the entrance which is difficult to appreciate as having been used as a cistern or maybe a trap.

From the point of view of military architecture, the plan of the monastery near Ouranopolis (Zygou) is impressive. The precinct walls go up the slope of the hill ending with a retreat tower at the highest point. This monastery and the Great Lavra / the oldest monasteries/ were placed in vulnerable strategic positions thus being equipped with strong fortifications.

How do the old historical aspects seem in the new world, from a modern perspective?

P.M.B:In my opinion, compared to our country, the realities in Athos are pretty well established in an optimist prognosis. Here and there too, you can see new, modern restorations as well as old concrete floors, museums with well preserved or restored pieces and others that need preservation. In some restored buildings I saw marked old walls and the openings for the dark oil protected with glass, while somewhere else they were inmured to keep warm the room transformed into a storage place for books. I saw a deserted deteriorated fortification on the sea shore, while at Nea Skiti a tower was being restored.

The tower of Morphonou Monastery still stands and the ruins of a monastery built by the inhabitants of a district in Constantinopole (coming from Southern Italy) are worth being researched. 

Nevertheless, the monk communities whose ideal is a life in faith and prayers should be praised and supported for their interest in the preservation of old buildings.

An inevitable though disagreeable question: How is the presence of the Romanians perceived in Athos?
P.M.B:The Romanians have always helped or served the Orthodox monk communities that have represented a stronghold of faith at the borders of the Christian world. Greek media  and monks from Athos have always known that the Romanian leaders have been some of the most important founders. In the arhondaric of the  Holy Dionisiou Monastery there is a modern portrait of the prince Neagoe Basarab that supported the reconstruction of the defending tower and of the aqueduct there. Another prince, Ioan of Moldavia donated the money for the reconstruction of a part of the same monastery, in 1535. The prince Alexander and his wife Ruxandra followed his example (this Alexander might have been the associate of Stephen the Great at the kingship.). Neagoe Basarab also supported the building of the retreat tower of  Holy St. Paul Monastery.

Stephen the Great and Constantin Basarab are also among the benefactors of this monastery. I met many Romanians in Athos: pilgrims, employees and monks. 16 young Romanians employed by one of the monasteries integrated here through their work, faith and discipline. A Romanian servant earned so much that he could afford to change his flat back in the country. Others work as drivers or builders at the important monasteries.

I insist on a delicate question: How were you able to obtain a study trip under these circumstaces of difficult access and financial restrictions?
P.M.B:This is one of the first study trips on the South Western coast of the peninsula made with the aim of knowing the important Athonite heritage to which the Romanian kings also contributed. It is a source of pride but also a duty. The success came as a result of the honest intentions and thoughts and Christian beliefs. I was supported by PS Visarion, bishop of Tulcea and by father deacon Toma from the Sibiu Archiepiscopate. The Saint Community and the monk communities, the geronta from the  Holy Monastery Simonos Petra , from Holy Monastery Gregoriou , from Holy Monastery Dionisiou  understood and supported my intentions. I would like to express my gratitude to Holly Fathers  Simeon, Nechifor, Gherontie, Ghervasie, Militos who took their time for helping me. The trip could not have been accomplished without the sponsorship of Mr. Ilie Gradinar. I also benefited by the support of the director of the Brukenthal National Museum who understood the importance of my research. I take this opportunity to show my appreciation to all I have mentioned.

You mentioned an archaeological site at Zygou. Was it the only experience of this kind?
P.M.B:The archaeological site at Ouranopolis was finalized, and now, despite the crises, the archeologists work to consolidate and raise the ruined walls were being carried out. I met a frantic activity at Tesaloniki where all the 30 archaeologists of the 10th Euforat of the Monuments team were out performing preservation and diggings. The building site of the Tesaloniki subway was blocked because of the “old walls” that had been discovered. The reaction of the street is the same as in our country: “Why should archaeologists block the entire street, isn’t the site of the subway enough?”

The cult of historical monuments is so profound in Greece that site research is not really affected by the crisis and the pressure of the investors.
I visited then the Archaeological Museum in Tesaloniki and the exhibition in the White Tower, two exceptional achievements of contemporary museography, where fantasy and common sense of the design architect elegantly put into value the (historical) objects without neglecting the medieval fortification when it is necessary to notice. Fantasy and light undoubtedly come from the South.

Do you and hope to resume the research?
P.M.B:The beginning of the research was long and difficult, neither seems the future easy to accomplish, but the experience and especially the fabulous archaeological heritage are reasons to optimistically stand for them.

(The interview was published in the newspaper Tribuna Sibiului , 19 and 26.11.2010)